The finest books produced during the quarter century prior to the outbreak of the Great War were almost invariably printed by the private presses, but post-war, with the development of new technology, the accolade of excellence passed into the hands of a small number of commercial firms, with the Curwen Press very much to the fore. Like those earlier printers, Harold Curwen was inspired by the Morrisian ideal, but he did not adhere to the tenet that ‘hand made’ was necessarily better than ‘machine made’, which led him to become one of the pioneering figures in the technical revolution that transformed the printing industry. Harold Curwen joined the family firm in 1908 and by 1916 had instigated a general replanning of the works and, aided by the wartime staff shortage, felt able to push ahead with the installation of modern machinery. He was in the forefront of the development of offset lithography, which ensured that the Curwen Press would be in the vanguard of fine colour printing throughout the next decade. Harold also pioneered, as far as England was concerned, the pochoir technique of hand-stencilling. 1922 was the beginning of the Curwen Press’s golden decade, during which it produced The Woodcutter’s Dog, the English language edition of Julius Meier-Graefe’s two volume biography of Van Gogh for the Medici Society, the exhibition catalogue of books and manuscripts for The First Edition Club, Goldoni’s Four Comedies and the delightful little pocket engagement book, The Four Seasons, illustrated by Albert Rutherston. Rutherston was later to illustrate Thomas Hardy’s Yuletide in a Younger World, the first of the Ariel Poems for Faber & Gwyer which were to become a feature of the collaboration between the two firms. In addition there was the ‘Safety First’ Calendar, adorned with Lovat Fraser’s cautionary illustrations. Following restructuring in 1933 the Curwen Press had a further forty years of distinguished work ahead both in the printing of books, particularly those illustrated by Barnett Freedman, as well as jobbing work, including some of the finest posters for the London Underground by Bawden, Wadsworth, John Banting, Betty Swanwick, Barnett Freedman and others. The Design series is the winner of the Brand/Series Identity Category at the British Book Design and Production Awards 2009, judges said: “A series of books about design, they had to be good and these are. The branding is consistent, there is a good use of typography and the covers are superb.”
Also available: Claud Lovat Fraser ISBN: 9781851496631 GPO ISBN: 9781851495962 Peter Blake ISBN: 9781851496181 FHK Henrion ISBN: 9781851496327 David Gentleman ISBN: 9781851495955 David Mellor ISBN: 9781851496037 E.McKnight Kauffer ISBN: 9781851495207 Edward Bawden and Eric Ravilious ISBN: 9781851495009 El Lissitzky ISBN: 9781851496198 Festival of Britain 1951 ISBN: 9781851495337 Jan Le Witt and George Him ISBN: 9781851495665 Paul Nash and John Nash ISBN: 9781851495191 Rodchenko ISBN: 9781851495917 Abram Games ISBN: 9781851496778
“a well-written, well-referenced and well-illustrated book. It provides a valuable addition to the literature and our understanding of a previously little-researched facet of the industrial midlands” British Art Journal
“Cataloguers now have an impressive volume of new information to draw on when describing anything from a simple tea tray to those suites of papier mâché furniture which remain as impressive today as when they dazzled visitors at the great international exhibitions of the 19th century” Antiques Trade Gazette
As one of the few decorative arts about which little has been written, japanning is today fraught with misunderstandings. And yet, in its heyday, the japanning industry attracted important commissions from prestigious designers such as Robert Adam, and orders from fashionable society across Europe and beyond. This book is a long overdue history of the industry which centred on three towns in the English midlands: Birmingham, Wolverhampton and Bilston. It is as much about the workers, their skills, and the factories and workshops in which they laboured, as it is about the goods they made. It tells of matters of taste and criticism, and of how an industry which continued to rely so heavily upon hand labour in the machine age reached its natural end in the 1880s with a few factories lingering into the late 1930s. Richly illustrated, it includes photographs of mostly marked, or well-documented, examples of japanned tin and papier mâché against which readers may compare – and perhaps identify – unmarked specimens. Japanned Papier Mâché and Tinware draws predominantly upon contemporary sources: printed, manuscript and typescript documents, and, for the period leading up to the closure of the last factories in the 1930s, the author was able to draw on verbal accounts of eyewitnesses. With a chapter on japanners in London, other European centres, and in the United States, together with a directory of japan artists and decorators, this closely researched and comprehensive book is the reference work for collectors, dealers and enthusiasts alike. Contents: From Imitation to Innovation; Enter the Dragon!; The Lion of the District; Japanning & Decorating; Not a Bed of Roses!; Clever Accidents?; Decline of the Midlands Japanning Industry; The Birmingham Japanners; The Wolverhampton Japanners; The Bilston Japanners; Japanners in London and Oxford; Products; Other Western Japanning Centres; Appendices.
The brothers Paul and John Nash, in their very different ways, were a major influence on twentieth century British design. Paul Nash (1889-1946) is now recognised as the most significant war artist of the last century; John Nash (1893-1977) as a plantsman artist. Both worked as designers and as tutors at the Royal College of Art, Paul encouraging a generation of designer artists that included Eric Ravilious, Edward Bawden and Enid Marx. As a committee member of the Design and Industries Association and President of the newly formed Society of Industrial Artists (now the Chartered Society of Designers) Paul promoted design as no less an art form than the fine arts of painting and sculpture. His clients included London Transport, Shell and Curwen Press and publishers the Nonesuch and Golden Cockerel Presses. John became well known for his Edward Lear influenced humorous illustrations and his superb plant drawings and wood engravings that illustrate innumerable books and publications. Paul Nash and John Nash, Design features over 150 illustrations, including graphic design, textile design, ceramics and glass, many not reproduced before. With descriptions by Brian Webb and an introductory essay by Peyton Skipwith. The Design series is the winner of the Brand/Series Identity Category at the British Book Design and Production Awards 2009, judges said: “A series of books about design, they had to be good and these are. The branding is consistent, there is a good use of typography and the covers are superb.”
Also available: Claud Lovat Fraser ISBN: 9781851496631 GPO ISBN: 9781851495962 Peter Blake ISBN: 9781851496181 FHK Henrion ISBN: 9781851496327 David Gentleman ISBN: 9781851495955 David Mellor ISBN: 9781851496037 E.McKnight Kauffer ISBN: 9781851495207 Edward Bawden and Eric Ravilious ISBN: 9781851495009 El Lissitzky ISBN: 9781851496198 Festival of Britain 1951 ISBN: 9781851495337 Harold Curwen & Oliver Simon: Curwen Press ISBN: 9781851495719 Jan Le Witt and George Him ISBN: 9781851495665 Rodchenko ISBN: 9781851495917 Abram Games ISBN: 9781851496778
A book that debunks the popular myth that William Wordsworth was, first and foremost, a poet of daffodils, Wordsworth’s Gardens and Flowers: The Spirit of Paradise provides a vivid account of Wordsworth as a gardening poet who not only wrote about gardens and flowers but also designed – and physically worked in – his gardens. Wordsworth’s Gardens and Flowers: The Spirit of Paradise is a book of two halves. The first section focuses on the gardens that Wordsworth made at Grasmere and Rydal in the English Lake District, and also in Leicestershire, at Coleorton. The gardens are explored via his poetry and prose and the journals of his sister, Dorothy Wordsworth. In the second half of the book, the reader learns more of Wordsworth’s use of flowers in his poetry, exploring the vital importance of British flowers and other ‘unassuming things’ to his work, as well as their wider cultural, religious and political meaning. Throughout, the engaging, accessible text is woven around illustrations that bring Wordsworth’s gardens and flowers to life, including rare botanical prints, many reproduced here for the first time in several decades. Contents: Part One: The Gardens and their Maker Part Two: Flowers and the Poetry A Note on the Botanical Plates List of Illustrations Acknowledgements
“Mr. Wolman’s view of the women as style icons comes into sharp focus thanks to a new coffee-table book, Groupies and Other Electric Ladies. It collects his published portraits along with outtakes, contact sheets, the original articles from the issue and new essays that put the subjects into a modern context. The thick paper stock and oversize format emphasizes Mr. Wolman’s view of the groupies as pioneers in hippie frippery.” New York Times Style section
“…style and fashion mattered greatly, were central to their presentation, and I became fascinated with them… I discovered what I believed was a subculture of chic and I thought it merited a story.” Baron Wolman The 1960s witnessed a huge cultural revolution. Music was at the heart of a new generation’s rallying cry for love, peace and harmony – from small clubs to giant festivals like Woodstock. With men predictably dominating as musicians and performers, the women and girls backstage started to explore their own forms of liberation and self-expression. They became better known as the Groupies – offering their allegiance to the music, and the artists who made it. On February 15, 1969 Rolling Stone magazine released a ‘Special Super-Duper Neat Issue’ called ‘THE GROUPIES and Other Girls’ featuring the work of their chief photographer, Baron Wolman. It would turn out to be a sensational milestone, making instant celebrities of the women featured. With this single issue, the Groupies had arrived. They emerged as extraordinary women, whose lifestyles divided opinion and remain controversial. Some became models, actresses, writers, artists and musicians – the GTOs, the original ‘Groupie band’ admired and encouraged by Frank Zappa, is featured here. Others fell into obscurity. Now, over 45 years later, ACC and Iconic Images are proud to publish the photographs of Baron Wolman in a single volume for the first time. Groupies and Other Electric Ladies features more than 150 images, including previously unseen out-takes and contact sheets, and comes complete with the original Rolling Stone text, as well as interviews with several of the women today.
Felicity Green brought a new, original voice and look to the fashion pages of the ’60s’ Daily Mirror. For the first time in newspaper history she created fashion pages designed to appeal to both sexes as the circulation soared to more than 5 million copies a day. Great pictures, great photographers, top designers, top models – Felicity made these Swinging ’60s fashion stories FUN! bringing the glamour and style of glossy magazines to the Mirror. These award-winning pages broke the fashion mould and captured the stellar time when London fashion conquered the world. Under Felicity Green’s by-line comes stories of the stars of the ’60s – they’re all talking in this original book: Mary Quant, Barbara Hulanicki, Vidal Sassoon, Twiggy, Terry O’Neill, and a sparkling foreword by Barbara Hulanicki, of Biba fame, tells the story of a fashion collaboration/friendship whose gingham dress made fashion history. The ‘Big Names’ from the ’60s are all here in this fun, entertaining and informative book which tells it how it really was; revel in close-up and very personal recollections. Sex Sense and Nonsense is an amusing, revealing look at the ’60s as you’ve never seen them before.
“Felicity Green was as much responsible for putting the swing into the ’60s as any of us including Mary Quant and me!” – Vidal Sassoon
“If it weren’t for Felicity and our gingham frock, my life would have been quite different.” – Barbara Hulanicki
“I plunged in to the London ’60s scene and broke all the rules – for me fashion is not frivolous, it’s part of being alive. Felicity at the Daily Mirror understood this – and understood me.” – Mary Quant
“Felicity was the journalist who first put ’60s fashions in newspapers. She recognised our scene and its potential to influence and change fashion and she put us all together, the models, the photographers with the clothes and hairstyles we all wanted to wear – and Felicity made it news.” – Terry O’Neill
“The Daily Mirror fashion pages looked like Felicity had kidnapped the Vogue art editor.” – Shirley Conran
“…a great resource for the art and textile enthusiast…” Classic Stitches, 2010. The most gifted textile designer of her generation, Shirley Craven won a string of awards during the 1960’s. This book celebrates her remarkable achievements at Hull Traders and documents her arresting hand screen-printed furnishing fabrics in full. Big bold abstracts were her speciality, striking in colour and breathtakingly original in style. A visionary small company with high ideals, Hull Traders made its mark initially with designs by artists Eduardo Paolozzi, Nigel Henderson and Ivon Hitchens. Under Craven’s direction Hull Traders issued a string of ground-breaking textiles during the 1960’s by forty artist-designers, recorded here in their entirety for the first time. Contributors included Althea McNish, John Drummond, Peter McCulloch, Doreen Dyall, Roger Limbrick, Cliff Holden, Richard Allen and Dorothy Carr. In 1966 Hull Traders branched out into furniture with the launch of Bernard Holdaway’s revolutionary tomotom range made of painted cardboard tubes – an icon of the Swinging Sixties, based entirely on circular forms, sold all over the world. Drawing on pioneering new research by leading post-war design historian Lesley Jackson, this book traces the fascinating, hitherto untold story of Hull Traders and its unique creative alliance with Shirley Craven and Bernard Holdaway. Featuring stunning new photography and rare archive photographs, it captures the explosion of creativity during the 1960’s and provides a visual feast of inspirational post-war pattern and form. Beautifully designed, Shirley Craven and Hull Traders is a companion volume to Jacqueline Groag ISBN: 9781851495900, Zandra Rhodes: Textiles Revolution, Medals, Wiggles and Pop 1961-1971, Artists’ Textiles: In America and Britain 1945-1976 ISBN: 9781851496297 and Pop! Design, Culture, Fashion 1955-1976 ISBN: 9781851496907, all recently published, to great acclaim, by Antique Collectors’ Club.
The extraordinary life of Barbara Cartlidge (b. 1922 in Berlin) – influential gallerist, curator, jewellery artist and author – together with the history of her legendary Electrum Gallery, which she founded in 1971 with Ralph Turner in London, are documented for the first time in a single publication. Pioneers and colleagues as well as around seventy internationally renowned artists of the gallery all have their say and, in anecdotes and recollections, countless illustrations and hitherto unpublished images, tell of a strong and resolute woman and the significance of her gallery as a promoter and platform for the understanding of contemporary art jewellery. Particular attention is paid to the life of Barbara Cartlidge, who fled from Germany in 1938. For over fifty years she was a driving force in what she described as the ‘the brotherhood of jewellers who make modern and thought-provoking jewellery all over the world’.
Chunghi Choo (b. 1938 in South Korea) is a world-renowned metalsmith and jewellery artist who is best known for her works that incorporate such techniques as electroforming and electro-applique. Choo’s artwork is represented in major museums around the world, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art (US), the Victoria and Albert Museum (UK) and the Musée des Arts décoratifs (FR). In addition, she is professor emeritus of the University of Iowa (US), where she established a metals programme, which she brought to international prominence during her more than thirty years of service. Many of her students have since become critically acclaimed artists in the fields of fine arts, jewellery, textiles, metalsmithing and sculpture. This volume reviews Choo’s remarkable career, showing selected pieces from the last six decades of extraordinary craftsmanship that earned her status as Elected Fellow of the American Craft Council. Works by thirty former students reveal Choo’s influence on a subsequent generation.
Daniel Kruger (b. 1951), widely known as a jewellery artist, presents an overview of his ceramic works, featuring 230 pieces created over twenty years. Classic examples – tulip and lidded vases, delftware and dinner services – are familiar references, which Kruger decorates with images of footballers, homoerotic nudes or casts of twigs or bones. Worlds collide, revealing our preconceptions regarding conventions that provide a manipulated view of reality. There is less interest in the spectacular; Kruger’s choice of images however, leads to unexpected, provocative combinations of form with decoration. In a continual process of artistic acquisition, new interpretation and appropriation, Kruger explores the interstice between historical archetypes and kitsch within European ceramic history.
Text in English and German.
Justyna Koeke transforms children’s fantasies into wearable sculptures, morphs fashion shows into performances. As a child the artist, together with her sisters, painted her heroes “princesses and saints” which she now translates into reality as a collection of vibrantly colourful outfits full of whimsical detail. These tailored fantasies are brought to life on the bodies of ladies of advanced years. The publication presents the entire project: from the child-like naive drawings, via photographs of the dressed-up models before the sterile backdrop of their retirement home, to fun-loving fashion shows – an equally humorous and critical approach to the correlation of childhood dreams and the reality of getting older, in which the unsolved issues of an increasingly ageing society invariably resonate. The art project, which fluctuates between sculpture, performance and allusions to the fashion world, was presented, among other places, at the Alternative Berlin Fashion Week.
Text in English and German.
The Alice and Louis Koch Collection of finger rings was originally collated by a jeweller from Frankfurt am Main, once described as the German ‘Cartier and Fabergé’. By 1909 the collection comprised 1,722 rings from Antiquity to 1900. Rene Lalique, a contemporary of the time, was included, undoubtedly as a moderniser of the ring form. In the past twenty-five years the fourth generation of the family continued where Louis Koch and his wife Alice left off and expanded the collection to include rings from the twentieth and twenty-first centuries.
This publication will present the complete collection of contemporary rings, now kept in the Swiss National Museum, Zurich. Nearly 600 rings by artist jewellers from around the world document how these miniature works of art have become modern sculptures showcasing new materials and techniques, daring designs and current themes.
Text in English and German.
Ulla and Martin Kaufmann have developed their aesthetic agenda together. The techniques used by gold and silversmiths are the focal point of their work and represent the basic thematic focus of their tableware, jewellery and cutlery. It rests on their exploratory approach to materials and the diverse possibilities it provides for expression. Ulla and Martin Kaufmann have been working in their own studio in Hildesheim for nearly forty years. The two artists have thus acquired unique skills over years of experience especially the knowledge of the properties of silver and gold, their materials of choice. This profound knowledge is an essential part of the indissoluble union of design and execution. The connotations are always dual: the form of objects stems from practical considerations; is, therefore, close to ideas of functional design. At the same time, individual expression born of the artists’ mastery of their craft and their exacting aesthetic standards surrounds these pieces with the aura of works of art. This book reveals the secrets and beauty of the stunning pieces made by Ulla and Martin Kaufmann. In showcasing these objects, it establishes their aesthetic permanence as timelessly practical works. Text in English & German.
The Ashmolean Museum is fortunate in having the most comprehensive British collection of the art of the Indian subcontinent outside London. Especially strong in sculpture, this rich representation of Indian art from prehistory to the twentieth century has come about through the generosity of our benefactors over more than three centuries. The Museum’s first major Indian sculpture acquisition, a stone Pala-style Vishnu image of the eleventh century, was given in 1686 by Sir William Hedges, a governor of the East India Company in Bengal. From the late nineteenth century, a substantial core of the present collection was assembled at the University’s former Indian Institute Museum (1897-1962), precursor of the Department of Eastern Art, which opened within the Ashmolean in 1963. Since that date many more Indian objects of all periods have been acquired by gift, bequest or purchase.
Contents: Introduction; Prehistoric South Asia; The Northwest; North & Central India; Eastern India and Deccan; Miscellanea; Bibliography.
The largest surviving portion of the first major collection of Classical antiquities in Britain – the sculptures and inscriptions collected in the early 17th century by Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel for his London house and garden – is in the Antiquities Department of the Ashmolean Museum. This handbook tracks their eventful history before they came to rest in Oxford.
Illustrated from the Ashmolean’s collection of contemporary sculpture, this book provides a context in terms of the Ashmolean’s world-famous collections of antique and renaissance sculpture and the development of twentieth-century sculpture as a whole. It makes accessible for the first time many pieces by, among others, Epstein, Frink, Maillol, Moore, Underwood and Zadkrine. It includes mainly small bronzes, but some larger works are featured.
Throughout its history, the Ashmolean has evolved to meet changing needs and reflect new ideas. In the process, it has transformed from a cabinet of curiosities, representing the world in microcosm, to a museum of art and archaeology, illustrating connections between cultures over time. This book tells the story of that remarkable transformation. It shows what the Ashmolean was like at various points in the past and introduces the people who helped to make it the museum it is today. It looks at the buildings that have housed the Ashmolean and how they have been continually altered and adapted, as well as at the collections and how they have been interpreted and reinterpreted over the centuries.